“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” Henry Miller
After a pretty intense year and a half of being consumed with career, I started to become aware of a creeping apathy which has begun to draw a bit of the colour and spice out of a comfortable life in Edinburgh. This was making it more difficult to summon the energy to do much outside of the normal routine.
This is the herald of burnout – and has to be taken seriously.
The culprit here is a lack of alignment between the things I really care about, and what I am actually spending time doing.
I know there is a lot of thinking to do, and that over-familiar regular haunts are too associated with the everyday grind.
A change is in order!
Luckily, a good friend of mine, Bjorn Bakker, is travelling the world at the moment (follow him at http://www.thedutchbroad.com) and has pretty much made the decision for me. As of the 3rd of December Bjorn will be in Japan, a country I have always found interesting largely because it is a unique culture, alien certainly to British life. After some wrangling I have managed to secure three weeks to soak in as much as possible of the country.
Japan Day 1: Konnichiwa Nihon
- Plane from Edinburgh to Schiphol, Schiphol to Tokyo Narita Airport.
- Narita Airport to Shinjuku where we spent the night (found via Airbnb).
I’ve spent so long waiting for this trip, and it very nearly didn’t happen due to illness and difficulty getting time off work and so to actually be here seems surreal.
I got to use a Japanese vending machine! I’d read about how vending machines (or jihanki in Japanese) are everywhere in Japan – selling everything from hot meals, bicycle parts, to used underwear. There are over 5.5 million machines in Japan in total! One of the interesting reasons given for this is Japan’s relatively low crime rate meaning there is little risk of vandalism (see here: http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/indepth/cultural/hj/vendingmachines.html). I wonder how many of Japan’s innovations we sadly can’t bring back to the west for this reason. Anyway – getting to actually use one of these machines which are so quintessentially Japanese was great.
Met up with Bjorn at Ueno station on the way back to where we were staying. Seeing his ridiculously oversized grin was a warm welcome to the country!
After we cleaned up at the flat we were were staying in, we headed out to Shinjuku Gyoen park (http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3034_001.html) – which was beautiful in an excitingly different sort of way. I read about this a bit later and it turns out that there is rather a lot more to gardens than I originally thought – especially here in Japan where the different religious influences have directly affected their styles. In addition to simply being there for pleasure, they are used as part of religious practices in the form of mediation.
From Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_garden):
Japanese garden styles include karesansui, Japanese rock gardens or Zen gardens, which are meditation gardens where white sand replaces water; roji, simple, rustic gardens with tea houses where the Japanese tea ceremony is conducted; kaiyū-shiki-teien, promenade or stroll gardens, where the visitor follows a path around the garden to see carefully composed landscapes; and tsubo-niwa, small courtyard gardens.
Japanese gardens were developed under the influences of the Chinese gardens, but gradually Japanese garden designers began to develop their own aesthetics, based on Japanese materials and culture. By the Edo period, the Japanese garden had its own distinct appearance. Since the end of the 19th century, Japanese gardens have also been adapted to Western settings.
Japanese gardens have their roots in the Japanese religion of Shinto, with its story of the creation of eight perfect islands, and of the shinchi, the lakes of the gods. Prehistoric Shinto shrines to the kami, the gods and spirits, are found on beaches and in forests all over the island. Sometimes they took the form of unusual rocks or trees, which were marked with cords of rice fibre (shimenawa), and surrounded with white stones or pebbles, a symbol of purity. The white gravel courtyard became a distinctive feature of Shinto shrines, Imperial Palaces, Buddhist temples, and zen gardens.
Japanese gardens also were strongly influenced by the Chinese philosophy of Daoism, and Amida Buddhism, imported from China in or around 552 AD. Daoist legends spoke of five mountainous islands inhabited by the Eight Immortals, who lived in perfect harmony with nature. Each Immortal flew from his mountain home on the back of a crane. The islands themselves were located on the back of an enormous sea turtle. In Japan, the five islands of the Chinese legend became one island, called Horai-zen, or Mount Horai. Replicas of this legendary mountain, the symbol of a perfect world, are a common feature of Japanese gardens, as are rocks representing turtles and cranes.
We noticed that a lot of the desserts on offer had this curious Red Bean paste – including ice-cream! Unfortunately, it does not taste great.
From Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_bean_paste):
“Red bean paste or adzuki bean paste is a dark red, sweet bean paste. It is used in Japanese confectionery, Chinese cuisine, and Korean cuisine. It is prepared by boiling and mashing adzuki beans and then sweetening the paste with sugar or honey.”
We also went on a long walk to Roppongi hills.
From Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roppongi_Hills):
Constructed by building tycoon Minoru Mori, the mega-complex incorporates office space, apartments, shops, restaurants, cafés, movie theatres, a museum, a hotel, a major TV studio, an outdoor amphitheatre, and a few parks. The centerpiece is the 54-story Mori Tower. Mori’s stated vision was to build an integrated development where high-rise inner-urban communities allow people to live, work, play, and shop in proximity to eliminate commuting time. He argued that this would increase leisure time, quality of life, and benefit Japan’s national competitiveness.”
We finished the night with a fun pub crawl with a bunch of other foreigners (http://www.tokyopubcrawl.com/).
Japan Day 2
- Went on a hunt for the ‘Berg restaurant’ – impossible to find in on of the gigantic, multi-floor Tokyo train stations.
- Checked out Ueno park (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3019.html)
- National Museum of Nature and Science (http://www.kahaku.go.jp/english/)
- Visited the famous Akihabara district (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3003.html)
- Shosen Book Tower (https://en.japantravel.com/tokyo/akihabara-shosen-book-tower/26431)
- Tried Teppanyaki
- Visited a Maid Cafe – which to be honest was a little awkward (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maid_caf%C3%A9)
- Gundam Cafe (https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g1066443-d4679669-Reviews-Gundam_Cafe_Akihabara_branch-Chiyoda_Tokyo_Tokyo_Prefecture_Kanto.html)
- Mandarake (https://earth.mandarake.co.jp/shop/sby/)
- Tried a McDonald’s Teriyaki McBurger
- After a short kip, Golden Gai (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shinjuku_Golden_Gai)
Japan Day 3
- Bakery visit with Melon Bread (https://www.justonecookbook.com/melon-pan/)
- Visited the Meiji shrine (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3002.html)
- Visited the Yoyogi park (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3034_002.html)
- Saw the famous rockabilly dancers (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLl9GERTMYg)
- Saw a strange music event with Japanese reggae band
- Went through the Takeshita street fashion hub (https://jw-webmagazine.com/meet-the-real-kawaii-culture-takeshita-street-d0e4ee263ee9)
- Saw the famous Shibuya crossing (http://content.time.com/time/travel/cityguide/article/0,31489,1897812_1897772_1897742,00.html) including the famous Hachiko statue (http://beauty-of-japan.com/article/meet-up-place-statue-hachiko-shibuya/) and a andom “underground bookstore” guy who tried to sell Bjorn a self-binded book
Japan Day 4
Train from Tokyo to Nikko
At Nikko, saw the following:
- Toshogu Shrine (http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3801.html)
- Final resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate that ruled Japan for over 250 years from 1603 CE to 1868 CE. “Shogun” is translated literally as “military commander”, who operated as the de facto ruler of Japan although these were nominally appointed by the emperor. The Tokugawa Shogunate, also known as the Edo period as the Tokugawas ruled from Edo castle, was a period of sustained economic growth and stability in contrast to the proceeding “Sengoku” or “warring states” period – (1467 CE – 1603 CE).
- Taiyuinbyo (http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3802.html)
- Final resting place of grandson of Ieyasu.
- Walked by Rinnoji Temple, but didn’t go in due to ongoing reconstruction.
- While this is the most important Buddhist temple in Nikko, I knew I would be seeing many more in my stay
Bus to Okunikko
- Kegon Waterfall
- Lake Chuzenji
Bus back to Nikko, then the train to Tokyo
Had amazing dinner in Asakusa
While the monuments we went and saw were certainly impressive, the biggest highlight of this day were the friendly Japanese men we met on the train to Nikko. One of the group of about six or so struck up a conversation with us, and we did our best in extremely basic Japanese (assisted by Google translate) to talk to them about where we were from and some details about our trip. They helped break the ice by sharing some sake and nuts with us. In return we shared some chocolate cake which they seemed to enjoy. There really is something special about the act of giving food to someone.
The Togushu shrine included the famous “Three Wise Monkeys”, a carving depicting three monkeys, which popularized the proverb “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil”. Interestingly, there are differing explanations of of this saying; while in in the west it refers to a lack of moral responsibility (“I didn’t see anything bad, I didn’t hear anything bad, and I’m not going to talk about anything bad”), in Buddhist tradition, the message behind this proverb is said to be about not dwelling on evil thoughts. The Buddhist interpretation of “speak no evil” seems to have equivalents in the Torah with”hotzaat shem ra” (unsubstantiated defamation), and “leshon hara” (gossiping about things which may be true but with a non constructive purpose). Random trivia fact: Mahatma Gandhi used to carry around a small statue of the three monkeys – the exception to his lifestyle of non-possession.
Kegon waterfall was beautiful, but “over accessible”. The path to the viewing platform (which included an elevator ride) made the whole experience feel a little artificial – a little like watching something on television. We chatted about this for a while, including how different the experience was from the likes of Gulfoss in Iceland – where there was and element of danger and struggle that seemed to make everything more vivid. I found an interesting background article on motivation (http://blog.idonethis.com/the-science-of-motivation-your-brain-on-dopamine/) which seems to validate this idea – if you want a dopamine hit, it helps to feel like you have achieved something – which it is difficult to do if no struggle was necessary.
While wandering around Lake Chuzenji we had an interesting conversation around the importance of intention – and how to have positive experiences with people it helps so much to really feel positive. I remember the marked difference it made when I was practicing compassion meditation (http://ggia.berkeley.edu/practice/compassion_meditation) – a habit I need to resume.
Japan Day 5: Sometimes vending machines are better than people
- Took the train from Tokyo to Nagoya
Because we left late, we decided not to rush on to Ise as was the plan – instead walked around the park and Nagoya Castle (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nagoya_Castle) with a huge moat. While it was beautiful to see from afar, it was too too late to see it get some food
Where we discovered an amazing restaurant specializing in Tonkatsu Ramen – Ichiran (https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g298106-d1667803-Reviews-Ichiran_Nagoya_Sakae-Nagoya_Aichi_Prefecture_Chubu.html). It was a surreal experience – busy outside, vending machine, wait until some lights come in – ushered through to booth. press button get a sheet to fill out with your exact specifications, press button – take your tickets away with first half. – see bowing through little window. want more – get a refill by selecting questionnaire. clicking button again. Try the eggs!
We also checked out ‘Shooters’, a friendly, US-style bar with table football, enthusiastic staff and English everywhere. Nice to be able to communicate, but definitely felt like cheating.
Japan Day 6
- Travelled from Nagoya to Ise then to to Nara
Ise is famous for being the spiritual center of Shintoism where shrines are continually rebuilt. The attitude was much more serious than Tokyo – Bjorn got chastised for taking photos (which is forbidden). Nara is known for being Japan’s first permanent capital – established in the year 710 (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2165.html).
Japan Day 7
In Nara we ended up getting a great tour around some of the local sights by someone who refused to take any payment. We also go to feed some deers in Nara park (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARrFkOCJtKY).
Japan Day 8
Travelled from Nara to Koyasan (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4900.html), including a fun stretch in a funicular railway.
We had a temple stay, meaning we had very traditional living quarters and got to experience cool monk food.
We also checked out the famous cemetery by Okunoin Temple (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4901.html).
Japan Day 9
We got up, meditated, experienced a Goma Fire Ritual (http://www.ekoin.jp/en/omairi/index.html), which are carried to honour ancestors.
Visted the Garan temple complex (https://www.japan-experience.com/city-koyasan/danjo-garan) where we saw monks.
We then went from Koyasan to Osaka. We ended up in ‘Space Station’ (https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g298566-d3727432-Reviews-Video_Game_Bar_Space_Station-Osaka_Osaka_Prefecture_Kinki.html), where it turned out that one of the bartenders knew a friend of mine back in Scotland.
From there we went on to a couple of bars including a reggae bar called ‘One Love Osaka’ where I spent most of my time chatting about marketing with the owner. We were also denied entry to one or two places: ‘Japanese only’ we were told apologetically. Eventually we connected with a bartender/snowboarder who was having his birthday who ended up taking us into one such bar where we drank huge amounts and sang Karaoke into the early hours.
Japan Day 10
Didn’t do a huge amount today – still recovering from the previous day.
We did end up checking out Dotonbori (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%C5%8Dtonbori) however.
Japan Day 11
Travelled from Osaka to Kobe
Had amazing Kobe Beef lunch at at Ishida (https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g298562-d6181184-Reviews-Kobe_Beef_Steak_Ishida_Kitanozaka-Kobe_Hyogo_Prefecture_Kinki.html).
Visited the Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum (http://meheartseoul.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/HakutsuruSakeBreweryMuseum.html)
Japan Day 12
Got into Kyoto
Dropped off bags
Went to Temple Toji (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3919.html)
Went to the Kyoto Manga Museum (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3946.html)
Went to Pontocho (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3921.html) via waterside path
Japan Day 13
Went to Arishiyama (https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3912.html), where we checked out the bamboo forest
Went along great path, waterfront, coffee
Went to see monkeys
Japan Day 14
Extra day in Kyoto
More random exploration
Japan Day 15
Train from Kyoto to Hiroshima
Had another meal at Ichiran
Visited the Peace Park
Saw some people taking selfies, which seemed a little off.